Shawl Collar Pullover

84-2020 Shawl Collar Pullover

In these days of COVIC-19 confinement, I’ve been knitting… a lot.  And with a colder spring than usual, it’s been great to have some warmer wool pullovers to hand!  For this simple drop-shoulder pullover with shawl collar, I used KnitPicks Peruvian (1.75oz/50g = 110 yards), with assorted accent yarns in the same weight.  This size is a women’s medium (8/10) and requires 16oz of yarn, plus 12 strands of contrast yarn (12” each) for the rainbow squares.  It took me a day to do the main pieces on the machine, and three days to knit the ribs and collar.

   

If you don’t have an 8.5mm gauge knitting machine, use a 4.5/5mm circular needle for the main pieces, all in stocking stitch.  Do a tension sample, and adjust the yarn, needles, and/or pattern to suit.

Gauge: Plate 3 on the Bond machine – 27 rows x 18 stitches = 4” x 4”
Use 4mm circular needles for bottom rib, collar, and sleeve ribs, which are all knit by hand.

BACK:

Using scrap yarn, cast on 84 stitches.  Knit six rows and switch to main yarn;  set counter to 0.  Work in stocking stitch for 67 rows.

Add in accent colors by pushing forward two needles in the pattern:  6s, C-1, 8 sts, C-2, 8 sts, C-3, etc., to the end of the row — it should end with 6 sts in the main color.  Make sure color blocks are centered in the row. Alternative knitting action for main color and accent colors.  I put half the colors on the front, and half on the back, to make a rainbow pattern around the entire pullover.  Do this for three rows, then tie off accent colors before proceeding with under-arm decreases. (70 rows total)

Rows 71-72: decrease three stitches on each side for armhole. (78 sts left)  Reset counter and continue in stocking stitch for 10” or 60 rows.

Take middle third (26 stitches) and place on stitch holder, with 26 sts to each side.  Alternatively, use scrap yarn to hold those middle stitches;  knit six rows, then cast off those middle stitches loosely.

Right side shoulder shaping:  Knit one row, push forward the outermost 8 needles.  Knit back, push forward 1 needle on the outer side.  Knit next row and push forward the next 8 needles. Knit back, and push forward 1 needle on the outer side.  Knit final eight stitches. Push all 26 needles back into working position and change to scrap yarn.  Knit six rows and cast off.

Repeat for left side shoulder.

FRONT:

Using scrap yarn, cast on 84 stitches.  Knit six rows and switch to main yarn; set counter to 0.  Work in stocking stitch for 67 rows.

Knit in accent blocks as for the back; this will take three rows. (70 rows total)

Rows 71-71: decrease three stitches on each side for armhole. (78 sts)  Place middle 8 stitches on holder (or knit six rows with scrap yarn and cast off);  you should have 35 stitches left on each side.  Reset row counter.

Right side front:  Knit four rows and decrease one stitch next to the center.  Repeat these four rows four times (20 rows, 30 stitches are left).  Knit six rows, then decrease one stitch next to center; repeat three times (24 rows, 26 stitches left).  Knit for another 12 rows, total 56 rows.

Shoulder shaping:  Knit one row, push forward the outermost 8 needles. Knit back, push forward 1 needle on the outer side.  Knit next row and push forward the next 8 needles. Knit back, and push forward 1 needle on the outer side.  Knit final eight stitches. Push all 26 needles back into working position and change to scrap yarn.  Knit six rows and cast off.

Repeat for left side front, being careful to decrease on the center edge for the collar, and at the outer edge for the shoulder shaping.  Note:  I usually do 20 rows on the right side then 20 on the left, to keep the front balanced on the machine.

SLEEVES:

Match up front and back right shoulders and graft together using main yarn and Swiss mending stitch.  Bring forward 84 needles, and hang the shoulder on the machine, wrong side towards you, evenly spaced on the needles.  Hang weights evenly along the full width.  Reset counter.

Work in stocking stitch, decreasing one stitch each side (two stitches per row) every 4 rows until only 40 stitches are left;  you should have 88 rows.  Knit four more rows after the final decreases. Using scrap yarn, knit six rows and cast off.

Pick up stitches with 4mm circular needles; once the stitches are on the needle, strip out the scrap yarn. Knit in 1k, p1 rib for 24 rows (using super loop method).  Cast off and sew in ends.

Repeat for the left side (obviously).

FINISHING

Pick up stitches around bottom of the body on 4mm circular needles; once the stitches are on the circular needle, strip out the scrap yarn.  Work in 1k, p1 rib for 24 rows, then cast off.

Sew together the side seams and sleeve seams using the main yarn. Sew in all ends.

Pick up stitches around neck, 5 stitches per 6 rows, avoiding eight center stitches. Use 4.mm circular needles to 1k, p1 for 8 rows. Then start the short rows, back and forth in pattern:

  • Starting with right side facing, k1, p1 to six stitches from the end.  Turn.
  • WS: Slip first stitch purlwise, then k1, p1 to six stitches from the end.  Turn.
  • RS: Slip first stitch knitwise, then k1, p1 to 12 stitches from the end.  Turn.
  • WS: Slip first stitch purlwise, then k1, p1 to 12 stitches from the end.  Turn.
  • RS: Slip first stitch knitwise, then k1, p1 to 18 stitches from the end.  Turn.
  • WS: Slip first stitch purlwise, then k1, p1 to 18 stitches from the end.  Turn.
  • Continue, shortening each row by six stitches x ten total, that is, until you have ten sections of six stitches on each side, with only the back of the neck remaining on the working needles, 30-40 stitches, ending with a wrong side row.  Turn.
  • RS: Work k1 p1 to the end.
  • Continue in k1 p1 rib, end to end, until you have 16 rows, ending with wrong side row.  For the last four rows, knit more loosely for some extra give.

RS: Cast off loosely. Cross over ends and sew evenly into the eight stitches at the front. S trip out scrap yarn.

Sew in any remaining ends, including accent blocks… and you’re done!

Here is a printable version of this Shawl Collar Pullover pattern.

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